Vote HFWF in USA Today poll

Hawai'i Food & Wine Festival photo
Among local chefs involved in the. Hawai'i Food & Wine Festival are co-founders Alan Wong, left, and Roy Yamaguchi, right, and between them, Mark Noguchi, Lee Anne Wong and George Mavrothalassitis. Now they're asking you to vote for the festival as best in the nation in a USA Today poll.

Sunshine. Beaches. Food and wine selections from an international roster of top chefs and sommeliers. What's not to love about the Hawai'i Food & Wine Festival?

We've always known Hawaii is epicenter of world-class culinary events and word is getting out about the festival that, since 2011, has raised $1.3 million for local culinary and agricultural programs. HFWF is in the running for a USA Today poll looking for the Best Wine Festival in the USA Today 10 Best Poll.

HFWF has a good head start, currently in 2nd place out of 20 candidates and is hoping fans will push the festival into the top spot over the next two days.

Voting is open through 5:59 a.m. Aug. 15, Hawaii time. Here's the link to vote: 10best.com/awards/travel/best-wine-festival/hawaii-food-wine-festival-honolulu.

No need to enter email or personal information. Just click on "Vote."

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Nadine Kam is Style Editor and staff restaurant critic at the Honolulu Star-Advertiser; her food coverage is in print in Wednesday's Crave section. Contact her via email at nkam@staradvertiser.com and follow her on Twitter, Instagram and Rebel Mouse.

HFWF Watch: 'Chopstix & Cocktails' at The Modern

Nadine Kam photos
This foie gras macaron was prepared by chef Keith Pajinag from host hotel, the MODERN Honolulu.

BY NADINE KAM

The MODERN Honolulu welcomed 15 chefs and 15 winemakers and mixologists to take part in the second night of Hawai’i Food & Wine Festival on Oahu.

“Chopstix & Cocktails” took place throughout the property, with food and drink served on the Sunrise and Sunset pool decks and in the Sun Suites overlooking the Ala Wai Boat Harbor.

Dishes by the international roster of chefs were inspired by Asian cuisine and intended to be eaten with chopsticks.

The event is always a great opportunity for food fans to mix and mingle with their favorite chefs, whose passion for what they do also makes them so entertaining. I just started Periscoping and it was fun to talk to chefs Elizabeth Falkner and Bobby Chinn, even if the videos only live online for 24 hours.

In Bobby’s case, he may be happy that his rendition of the hula and mangling “Mele Kalikimaka” doesn’t live on. Coming all the way from London’s House of Ho, the half Chinese/half Egyptian chef told of his family’s roots in the islands, his grandparents living on St. Louis Heights, and of his 6-year birthday party, during which he was serenaded by none other than Don Ho (no relation to the restaurant, where he serves up a contemporary take on Vietnamese cuisine).

Here’s a look at what was on the table:

Continuing the tradition of savory/sweet desserts, New York chef/author Elizabeth Falkner practiced her food alchemy, ladling charred pineapple ice over her dessert of coconut-chia creme with smoked macadamia nuts and passionfruit-soy caramel.

When the liquid “smoke” cleared, we had a better look at what was for dessert.

One of the three original “Iron Chefs” in 1993, Kenichi Chen of Akasaka Szechwan Restaurant, more popularly known as Shisen Hanten, Japan, was there with sone Kentaro Chen. Kenichi Chen is known as Japan’s “Father of Sichuan Cuisine.”

The Chens served up island shrimp two ways, with curry and chili mango sauces.

At chef Jonathan Waxman’s station, a crew member, turns ono over on the grill.

Waxman’s ono was topped with guacamole and Romanesco sauce.

HFWF watch: 'Champagne & Caviar' at Halekulani

Nadine Kam photos
Sturia Primeur caviar was one of four styles of caviar served during the “Champagne & Caviar” event at Halekulani as part of the Hawai’i Food & Wine Festival.

BY NADINE KAM

After opening stints on Hawaii Island and Maui, the Hawai’i Food & Wine Festival moved over to Oahu Wednesday, beginning with “Kamehameha School Presents Urban Lu’au” at SALT Kakaako, and “Caviar & Champagne” at Halekulani Hotel, an encore to last year’s “Caviar and Krug.”

This time around at Halekulani, four of the world’s most illustrious champagnes were paired with French Sturia Caviar for a most decadent and educational experience.

Sturia grew out of a 25-year-old French-based sturgeon-raising operation, and after 15 years now offers 10 types of caviar from two species of sturgeon: Acipenser baerii and acipenser gueldenstaedtii.

We were able to sample four of the different caviars: Sturia Vintage, Primeur, Grand Chef, and Oscietra Grand Cru, paired with, respectively, Cristal Louis Roederer 2006, Salon Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil Brut 2002, Moët & Chandon Dom Pérignon 2004, and Krug Grande Cuvée.

Most of the time, restaurants offer caviar as an embellishment for other food, so it’s rare to have a tasting like this, where all the focus is on a few types of caviar.

Orlando Benedicto photo courtesy Hawai’i Food & Wine Festival
Great champagnes accompanied the caviar.

With each sampling, presented on mother-of-pearl spoons to avoid the reactive effects of a metal spoon, we were able to gauge texture of the beads, salt and iodine levels, fishiness and nuttiness of the sturgeon roe, discerning differences between each style. To me, the salty mildness of the Primeur was reminiscent of cheese. It was one of my favorites, along with the well-balanced Oscietra, a rare product considered the Rolls Royce of caviar. Sturia produces only 600 kilos, or 1,320 pounds of Osetra Grand Cru caviar a year, and only 10 kilos, or 22 pounds is allocated to the United States each year.

Because of distance and FDA and Fish and Wildlife regulations, the U.S. is new territory for the company. Most of Sturia’s caviar now goes to Russia and the Middle East, at about 1.3 tons each annually. Japan is close behind, and the China market is growing rapidly.

Those who prefer their caviar more fishy, might try the Vintage or Grand Chef styles. The Grand Chef is the most popular, with a bold saltiness. I enjoyed them all.

In addition to the 10 styles, Sturia will be offering a special Christmas caviar, refined over five weeks to be less salty, as well as another Valentine’s Day caviar.
A representative from Sturia told me that it’s customary in France for gentlemen to present their beloved with a gift of a tin of caviar for Valentine’s Day. Well of course there are aphrodisiac properties associated with caviar. Then there is the price point. A tin of Oscietra Grand Cru will set you back $400 or $500, and that may mean more to a woman than the cost of a box of chocolates!
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Those wishing to purchase Sturia caviar might get in touch with Gatlaine & Paul Evidenza Gastronomy & Prestige at Waterfront Plaza, 500 Ala Moana Blvd., Building 7 Suite 400. Call (808) 543-1160.

Sturia’s Osciettra or Osetra caviar had a green tinge. It is said to be a favorite of women, and I did like its delicacy very much.

A tin of Oscietra or Osetra caviar might sell for $400 to $500.

Following the solo caviar tastings, Halekulani executive chef Vikram Garg showed how the caviar might be incorporated into a dish like this puree of smoked baked potato and lemon with potato croutons.

Before the event ended, people lined up for a second chance to compare selections and choose their favorites.
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Nadine Kam is Style Editor and staff restaurant critic at the Honolulu Star-Advertiser; her coverage is in print on Wednesdays and Thursdays. Contact her via email at nkam@staradvertiser.com and follow her on Twitter, Instagram and Rebel Mouse.

HFWF in house at Foodland Farms for Eat Local Tuesdays

Nadine Kam photos
Hawai’i Food & Wine Festival co-founder Roy Yamaguchi was among the chefs offering a preview of the fall foodie event during Foodland’s most recent “Eat Local Tuesdays” tasting.

BY NADINE KAM

In partnership with Foodland’s “Eat Local Tuesdays” tasting series, representatives from the Hawai’i Food & Wine Festival were at Foodland Farms Aina Haina on Aug. 11 to whet shoppers’ appetites for the full-range of epicurean and wine-centric events starting Aug. 29 on the Big Island, before moving on to Maui and arriving back on Oahu on Sept. 9 through 13.

Chef and HFWF co-founder Roy Yamaguchi (Roy’s Restaurant), Keoni Chang (Foodland Supermarket), Mark Noguchi (Pili Group) and Colin Hazama (Royal Hawaiian Hotel) were paired with local farmers and food purveyors including MAʻO Organic Farms, Ho Farms, Hawaiian Crown, and Wow Farm, to offer up tasty bites, sips and curated wine pairings.

Just as in past years, the festival started by Yamaguchi and chef Alan Wong will welcome more than 100 internationally renowned master chefs, culinary personalities, and wine and spirit producers. Funds raised will support local beneficiaries committed to sustainability and cultural and educational programs in Hawaii.
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Visit hawaiifoodandwinefestival.com for the full schedule and ticket information.


Non-flash video

Foodland launched its “Eat Local Tuesdays” tasting series to promote local produce and products, in line with HFWF’s mission to support Hawaii’s culinary scene, farmers, food products and promote sustainability.

Roy served up curry-coated New Zealand salmon topped with crunchy bubu arare, served with WOW Farm tomatoes and shallot sambal.

Shoppers had the opportunity to sample beer with flavors such as sweet potato and banana.

Colin Hazama, who recently made the move from the Sheraton Waikiki to executive chef position at the Royal Hawaiian Hotel, shows his dish, also below, a Taste of Tuscan Twin Bridge Farms starting with ahi prosciutto, with tomato sorbet, Waialua asparagus ribbons and caponata.

Pili Group’s Mark Noguchi with HFWF development manager Aya Nishihara.

The Pili Group offered up refreshing lime and Waiola coconut water-pineapple shooters with Kohana Rum and a cloud of dry ice emanating from the blender before the pour.

OnoPops Josh Lanthier-Welch served up bites of his Kona coffee and butter mochi paletas, perfect on a very hot day. 12th Ave. Grill's Kevin Hanney was also there sharing his very popular Koko Head Foods smoked ahi spread.

Keoni Chang served up lettuce wraps, below, with grilled fish, Ho Farms tomatoes, shiso relish and cucumber dill sauce.

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Nadine Kam is Style Editor and staff restaurant critic at the Honolulu Star-Advertiser; her coverage is in print on Wednesdays and Thursdays. Contact her via email at nkam@staradvertiser.com and follow her on Twitter, Instagram and Rebel Mouse.

Around the world via Hawai'i Food & Wines Festival

Nadine Kam photos
Hawai’i Food & Wine Festival co-founders, chefs Roy Yamaguchi, left, and Alan Wong, with executive director Denise Yamaguchi, posed for a shot after addressing the crowd at the Modern Honolulu.

Once again, the Hawai’i Food & Wine Festival proved to be a feast for the eyes, mouth, opu and even the ears for those who managed to catch chef Hubert Keller’s stint as a DJ.

The state’s largest food festival opened at the Waikoloa Beach Marriott Resort on Aug. 29 and moved to the Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa in Kaanapali on Aug. 31 before landing on Oahu, where the event started by chefs Roy Yamaguchi and Alan Wong began just four years ago.

On Oahu, the festival encompassed a heady four days of farm tours, wine tastings, next-generation kiddie event, Battle of the Brunch chef showdown, and of course, the highlight tasting events featuring cuisine cooked up by our local talent, joined by more than 35 international celebrity chefs.

The charitable event was started as a way of raising funds to benefit culinary education and farming in Hawaii — two issues close to the hearts of the chefs, who have been advocates of sustainability since entering the dining scene a quarter century ago before we really had a word for it.

Back then, it started with supporting the work of farmers and collaborating in bringing something unique and special to the table. Today, it is about so much more: survival, safety, mindfulness, environmental protection, our future. It is about eating local, but the repercussions are global.

This year I was able to make it to two of the signature events, A Lucky Modern Buddha Belly that took place Thursday at the Modern Honolulu, and Corks & Forks on Saturday at the Hawai’i Convention Center.

My pick for food hero was Josh Lanthier-Welch of Ono Pops, who at the Corks & Forks event delivered an amazing Baked Alaska paleta of lilikoi, dipped into Italian meringue, then brûlée’d by torch, for an amazing caramel meets tart citrus flavor, with a fluffy meets creamy texture. So amazing! As soon as I walked into the event, people were raving about it, but I’m not a dessert-first person so decided to check back later. I was a big fan by evening’s end.

Lanthier-Welch said he’s now working on perfecting a Cherries Jubilee pop. Looking forward to it!

Here’s a sampling of what was on the table:

Josh Lanthier-Welch of Ono Pops applies the torch to his Baked Alaska Ono Pop. Seriously good stuff!

The poolside setting at the Modern. With so many people on deck clamoring to get to the food, I felt the water’s gravitational pull and kept thinking, “Don’t fall in, don’t fall in.”

Later that evening.

Philip Johnson of e’cco, Brisbane, offered tender soy-braised beef cheeks with Asian herb salad and crispy shallots. The flavors are nothing new to us.

Byung Jin (B.J.) Kim of Korea’s Bicena, offered up a pungent and spicy dish of urchin and snapper with gochujang ice, below.

Grilling Kona abalone at Nancy Oakes station.

Nancy Oakes of Boulevard, in San Francisco, topped grilled Kona abalone with sea asparagus, hearts of palm, slivers of teriyaki bacon and pickled Maui onions.