Rua Catering pops up at Vineyard Food Co.

Nadine Kam photos
Friends Jayse Sato, left, and Grant Oura of Rua Catering team up to bring weekend pop-ups to the site of Vineyard Food Co., in Wailuku, Maui.

BY NADINE KAM

When faced with a surplus of seafood last summer, the friends behind Rua Catering did what they know best. They threw a party.

Grant Oura and Jayse Sato’s backyard parties in Wailuku, Maui, drew friends family and neighbors to sample nigiri sushi at $1 a piece, which made them the most popular guys in town.

Those popular impromptu bashes soon turned into an occasional pop-up at Vineyard Food Co., in Wailuku town, a space that serves as a commercial kitchen for a handful of small catering companies and food preparers.

With an eye toward testing restaurant feasibility in that space, the friends are now bringing their pop-up to the site from 5 to 10 p.m. every Friday and Saturday. I was able to check it out Jan. 16.

Japanese noodles with day catch of Hana spiny lobster head broth, topped with salmon belly, with accents of basil oil.

Jayse Sato shapes nigiri of snapper in the kitchen.

Sato, who worked in Seattle before returning home to work as a sushi chef at Nuka, still provides the sushi on the menu, while Oura tends to the hot entrées.

Trained in the kitchens of Sam Choy, Bev Gannon and Alan Wong’s Amasia, Oura, who also worked at Nuka, prepares some dishes I have yet to see on Oahu, including an oxtail katsu and miso-Buffalo wings.

The two also combine their efforts in putting their own spin on local favorites, such as a dish of pastele stew over a gandule rice and crab roll ($12), and lechón roll ($10), made better by adding a few drops of the spicy ponzu from an oyster shooter ($5).

Their focus is on fresh ingredients, with as much as possible made from scratch, including soy sauce, azuki bean paste and kinako ice cream.

For as much work put into the food, a la carte prices are reasonable, starting with that $5 shooter, $6 to $8 for two pieces of nigiri sushi, $10 to $17 for sushi rolls, and $10 to $16 for entrées. Menus will change with availability of seasonal ingredients.

Dishes were accompanied by a light show as a combination of LED ice cubes and sparklers lighted up eyes during the presentation of several courses, as seen in the video below.


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Vineyard Food Co. is at 1951 E. Vineyard St., Wailuku, Maui. No reservations are taken.

Rua's Surf 'N Turf Roll presents the challenge of stuffing this lobster and ginger roll topped with seared rib eye, truffle butter, kabayaki sauce and micro basil into your mouth. Recently, $17.

A trio of Kobe burger sliders topped with bacon jam, tomato, brie and onion cream sauce, with buns made by Four Sisters Bakery across the street from the Vineyard Food Co. This was presented under glass with LED light and a cloud of hickory smoke. Recently priced at $15.

Garlic, Parmesan, truffle fries are a natural complement for the sliders, at $7.

I was a little scared of the aquarium gravel colors of the shrimp tempura roll ($15), until discovering these were the crispy bits that turned sushi of spicy tuna, shrimp and hamachi into a tempura roll.

First bite: Sushi Murayama delivers food and fun

Nadine Kam photos
Black tiger prawns were torched and served in that perfect crunchy/sweet state between being sashimi and fully cooked.

BY NADINE KAM

Sushi Murayama is one of the few restaurants lately, to open as an instant hit, thanks to chef/owner Ryuji Murayama’s sterling reputation at Tokkuri-Tei. His first solo restaurant is therefore packed, so don’t expect to get a reservation right away.

The biggest draw may very well be the chef himself. Born in Japan and raised here since 3, he’s more local than Japanese so you don’t have to worry about any language barriers. He spent three-and-a-half years honing his sushi skills in Japan, but in another life, he could have been a comedian as he keeps jokes coming, while welcoming each guest as a long-time friend.

In the age of the celebrity chef, he brings the one thing to the table that others have forgotten in recent years, hospitality. He leaves guests feeling good, and that positive vibe carries over to the entire experience.

Chef Murayama presents the prawns at the sushi counter.

The restaurant has a decent sized izakaya menu, but it’s the sushi that stands out, and the chef’s $75 per person omakase menu is a good place to start for those game to try anything. At any rate, it will lift you out of ahi mode to try many other types of fish.

Considering that, squeezing in between others’ reservations, I had an hour to complete this menu of chef’s selections, Murayama put out 10 selections at a rate of one selection about every 6 minutes. That’s some speedy work. The type and number of selections vary with availability of fish and shellfish, and perhaps your enthusiasm level. If you’re gushing over every dish, chef may just want to keep the praise coming.

Costwise, this broke down to $7.50 per selection. If you were to go the a la carte route for sushi, the range is $5 for tako, $8 for hamachi, ikura or scallop, up to $20 for ootoro and $27 for black tiger prawns.

The presentation is more fish market vendor than artisan, but few would complain about the huge slabs of fish Murayama layers over rice, including a generous cut of premium chutoro, the tuna’s fatty underbelly, the starting dish of the day’s omakase.

It was the opposite of my first experience with this chef and chutoro, ordered as sashimi. When he presented a plate with just a pinky finger size portion of fish, my friends and I were like, “What the …?” before realizing he was just toying with us.

The full-size serving chutoro sashimi, part of another dinner exploring the izakaya menu.

 Next up on our omakase was hirame, or fluke, topped with crunchy engawa, or fluke fin, for extra texture. It isn’t often that engawa shows up on the table, so I felt very privileged. Murayama dusted the serving tray with snow-mimicking salt, a reminder that winter fish from Japan are at their most voluptuous state of fattiness, prompting us to try to get in as many visits as we can before warmer weather sets in. That little touch of salt was all this fish needed.

A perfect marriage of sake, or salmon, and ikura. Not a single morsel of the pearl-size roe went to waste.

Maui no ka oi for Whole Foods 'ONO award

Whole Foods photos
Among Whole Foods ‘ONO Award winners are, clockwise from left, Maui Breadfruit Co.’s Pono Pies, Two Chicks in a Hammock’s Backyard Juice Chili Pepper Water, Hawaii Taro Co.’s Maui Taro Burger, and Kumu Farms produce.

BY NADINE KAM

Whole Foods Market Hawai‘i named the winners of its third annual 2015 ‘ONO Awards Sunday night at Maui Brewing Co., in Kihei.

The awards were created to honor local companies and growers that embody Whole Foods Market’s mission and core values, and the event took place on Maui because the island is the home of all of this year’s winners, though nominees came from throughout the islands.

“The fact that we have a Maui sweep is a real testament to the thriving and exciting local food community there,” said Dabney Gough, metro marketing field team leader at Whole Foods Market Kāhala, who created the awards in 2012.

To be eligible, products must be grown or produced within the state and carried at Whole Foods Market Hawai’i locations.

Winners were selected by the Whole Foods Market Hawai’i team, except for the People’s Choice award winner which was determined by a two-part nomination and final voting process that took place on social media channels.

Since opening its first Hawaii store in 1980, Whole Foods Market has partnered with local farmers and producers that currently number 300. Last year, the stores purchased nearly $12 million in agricultural and value-added products from local farmers and producers, and continue to seek additional local products and producers.

For more information, visit Whole Foods Market Kāhala, Kailua, and Maui, or @wfmhawaii on Twitter.

Maui Breadfruit Co.’s Maui Coffee and Chocolate Pono Pie, is one of several gluten-, dairy- and GMO-free products that earned the company a berth in Whole Foods Market.

Here are the 2015 winners:

Team Member Pick of the Year: Maui Breadfruit Co. Pono Pies
Sustainability Award: Maui Breadfruit Co. Pono Pies
Innovation Award: Hawaii Taro Co. Maui Taro Burger
Best New Product: Maui Brewing Co. Lorenzini Double IPA
Partner of the Year: Kumu Farms, grower of papayas, kale, and other produce
Hall of Fame: Yee’s Orchard mangoes
People’s Choice Award: Two Chicks in a Hammock’s Backyard Juice Chili Pepper Water

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Nadine Kam is Style Editor and staff restaurant critic at the Honolulu Star-Advertiser; her coverage is in print on Wednesdays and Thursdays. Contact her via email at nkam@staradvertiser.com and follow her on Twitter, Instagram and Rebel Mouse.

Nordstrom unveils Hawaii restaurant plans

Rendering courtesy Nordstrom

BY NADINE KAM

During a media lunch that took place today at MW Restaurant, Nordstrom announced it will open with two new dining concepts when it opens the doors to its new Ala Moana Center Ewa Wing store on March 11.

When I heard about the site of the luncheon—you know a journalist’s mind is always roiling and trying to connect dots—I thought it was likely that the MW crew would be involved in some way. But no, it’s just that Cafe Nordstrom is too busy to accommodate an extra party of 30.

The new Ruscello Restaurant will mark an evolution of the Cafe Nordstrom concept with casual favorites and a menu of Italian- and Mediterranean-inspired specialties. And we warned them not to ever remove the tomato bisque from the menu.

Also new will be a stylish new Habitant Lounge and Bar offering casual lunches and a full bar with handcrafted cocktails.

The quick-stop Ebar and Gelato Bar will make the move to the new site as well.

Can’t wait for a taste!

Stay up to date on social media as follows:
Facebook: www.facebook.com/NordstromHawaii
Instagram: www.instagram.com/nordstromhawaii
Twitter: www.twitter.com/nordstromhawaii
Use the hashtag #NordstromHawaii.

Now, be alert and don’t get confused, but the following is what was served up at MW while we listened to this exciting food news:

Nadine Kam photosMW’s arancini arrived as one of the family-style appetizers offered.

With a short list of selections to order from, including grilled kalbi shortribs, I opted for a dish of Kauai shrimp and bacon risotto with Waialua asparagus and kale.

Rick Blangiardi, general manager at Hawaii News Now, had to leave before entrées arrived, but his grass-fed beef burger with pipikaula and avocado salsa topping did not go to waste, scarfed down by the women of Oahu Publications. Thanks Rick! The burger was so juicy. Don’t ask me why there’s no bun. Maybe Rick is gluten-free? Maybe they were all bunless. We were too busy devouring fries to notice.

The meal was to end with Hawaiian Crown chocolate banana cream pie with strata of Graham crackers, chocolate pudding, kinako-banana ice cream and salted butterscotch shortbread. But MW's Michelle Karr-Ueoka can never put out one dessert ...

… so diners could also opt for a lilikoi and fruit-filled crème brûlée. Many sampled both desserts.

Morimoto launches new happy hour R&D menu

Nadine Kam photos
A Fall en Pomegranate cocktail with Absolut Pear and housemade grenadine is $7 on Morimoto Waikiki’s new happy hour R&D menu.

BY NADINE KAM

Morimoto Waikiki has launched a satisfying new happy hour R&D menu, available 5 to 7 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays at the bar or in the lounge.

It features a short but sweet menu of eats, craft cocktails and beer at accessible prices of $5 to $10.

The menu will change seasonally as a way of introducing new menu and bar items that chefs and mixologists are considering adding to the menu on a more permanent basis.

Current bites include maki sushi of the day ($8), sticky ribs with tamarind glaze ($10), shishito peppers with sea salt ($6), hamachi tacos ($8), edamame with sea salt ($6), and soba with shrimp tempura ($10).

Bud Light, Heineken and Kirin are $5 each.

The restaurant is in The MODERN Honolulu, at 1775 Ala Moana Boulevard. Call (808) 943-5900.

Here’s a look at some of the possibilities:

Scallop in ponzu sauce topped with chili threads was one seasonal special offered during Morimoto happy hour last month. Let's hope for a return!

Wagyu carpaccio finished with hot oil, ginger, yuzu and soy sauce on the main menu at Morimoto Waikiki, was on the R&D menu last month.

IHOP reintroduces all-you-can-eat pancakes for new year

IHOP photo
All-you-can-eat pancakes are back at IHOP.

BY NADINE KAM

So much for that diet resolution. For the new year, IHOP is bringing back its “All You Can Eat” pancakes.

Today through Feb. 14, dine-in guests at participating IHOP restaurants can order either five famous buttermilk pancakes or a short stack of two pancakes with a combo plate of eggs, golden hash browns and their choice of breakfast meats for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Once that initial serving of pancakes has been devoured, guests can keep a short stack of two buttermilk pancakes coming again and again until they’ve had all they can eat.

Guests can choose to add and switch among four toppings—strawberries, blueberries, cinnamon apples and peaches—for one additional cost.

Note that this year Fat Tuesday, also known as Pancake Day, falls on Feb. 9, the last day of feasting and gorging on pancakes before Lent. Pancakes are associated with Shrove Tuesday because making them was a way to use up rich ingredients such as eggs, milk and sugar, before the 40-day fasting of Lent.

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Nadine Kam is Style Editor and staff restaurant critic at the Honolulu Star-Advertiser; her coverage is in print on Wednesdays and Thursdays. Contact her via email at nkam@staradvertiser.com and follow her on Twitter, Instagram and Rebel Mouse.

MW hosts tea pairing with Kathy YL Chan

Nadine Kam photos
Food writer and tea specialist Kathy YL Chan was in town to join Michelle Karr-Ueoka in presenting a tea and dessert pairing event.

BY NADINE KAM

The art of tea is relatively new in the West and it’s only within the past two or three years that Asian-style tea shops began springing up around town. Even so, sipping on oolong, white, pu-erh and green teas continues to be a standalone experience as we get to know the flavors, chemistry and benefits of the teas.

We have yet to embrace the idea of tea sommeliers that exist in China. Here’s one of my earlier blog posts about such an experience: http://takeabite.staradvertiserblogs.com/2012/05/01/opening-the-senses-to-jin-xuans-tea-experience/

Kathy YL Chan is trying to change that. Born and raised in Hawaii, the tea connoisseur now lives in New York and travels the world as a tea consultant for restaurants and hotels, and as a writer and speaker focusing on teas. Somke of her clients include Lady M Confections, Eleven Madison Park, and The Peninsula Hotels.

 

The first pour of Mi Xiang oolong tea, which was a hit of the day.

She teamed with fellow Alan Wong restaurant alum Michelle Karr-Ueoka for an afternoon tea and dessert pairing event that took place Dec. 27 at Michelle’s MW Restaurant.

Wine pairing with her desserts is nothing new to Michelle, but she said the event marked her first attempt at pairing teas, a ritual that will no doubt grow in popularity—like beer and sake pairings—as people become more familiar with the teas themselves.

Guests eyes, and palates, were opened as they bit into Michelle’s first offering of a Ka’u orange and tropical fruit “Pop Tart,” noting how it meshed with the creamy, honey notes of China’s Mi Xiang oolong.

Kathy said oolong is her favorite category of tea because it offers the biggest variety and most complexity.

She is currently consulting with a major restaurant set to open here next year.

Michelle’s dessert of Ka’u orange and tropical fruit “Pop Tart” with orange cheesecake, fresh fruit, lilikoi sorbet, and Hawaiian honey over yuba “puff pastry” boosted the tea’s creamy, honey notes.

A selection of Hawaiian Island Goat Dairy cheeses accompanied by housemade tea leaf lavosh and Da Hong Pao oolong.